Frequently Asked Questions
What year did you get into ball pythons?
I got into ball pythons at the end of 2019 when I attended NARBC Arlington. My first snake was Penny, a banana het pied (who doesn't freckle), produced by Mike Wilbanks.
When did you decided to become a breeder?
I guess I firmly decided to become a breeder in March of 2020 (right before I was laid off due to Covid). I started looking at genes more closely, and how different genes meshed together. I originally bought a male and female bamboo to breed together to make a super bamboo without realizing it made a super white snake (not a fan of white snakes ha-ha). It was really at that moment I knew that if I was going to get serious about this hobby then I had to be smarter about my future plans, my purchases, and pairings.
What racks do you use for your collection?
My snakes are housed in ARS 5040 or 7010 racks, and my hatchlings are housed in C Serpents 18 or 45 tub racks. My larger breeder females are housed in the ARS 7010.
What substrate do you use?
Do you offer payment plans?
Yes, I currently offer a 25% non-refundable deposit for snakes $500 or more. My payment plans range from 30 - 90 days. Payment plans are provided on a case by case basis.
Do you offer a health guarantee?
I am the only breeder to my knowledge that offers a 30 day health guarantee. In the off chance that an animal passes away within the first 30 days the buyer must schedule a necropsy (within a week), and have the cause of death determined as a bacterial infection. IF the animal in question is found to have died by a bacterial infection, and the Veterinarian who performed the necropsy determined that the snake had received this bacterial infection while in my collection before shipping then I will 100% pay for the necropsy, and either refund the entire payment of the snake or ship out a replacement snake of equal value. If the animal is found to have died not of a bacterial infection then no refund or replacement will be made.
How do you setup your egg box?
I setup my egg box by following Deborah's (Stewart Reptiles) guide on the morph market forums. You can find it here. The only difference I do is I add press 'n seal to the tops.
When do you start pairing your females?
I don't personally start to pair my females until they are 1400g's or large. My males need to be over 800 grams and 14 months old, but I've had the most luck with my males being over 1000 grams. The industry standard seems to be 1200 grams and 2 years of age for females and 500+ grams and 6 months of age for males.
Is importing snakes difficult?
Not at all. It's very easy to do, but the hardest part could be communication between you and whoever you're trying to purchase a snake from. Not to mention the time difference. I would highly recommend downloading WhatsApp to talk to any seller overseas. It's easier for everyone involved.
What temps do you keep for your collection?
My racks have a hot spot between 90 - 92 degrees Fahrenheit.
The cool side is between 80 - 85 degrees. My incubator stays at 90 degrees and will drop or rise 0.5 degrees.
Do you stand by your hatchling identifications?
I try my best to identify hatchlings to the best of my ability, and reach out to other breeders (working the same genes) to get their input on what I am identifying. With multi gene hatchlings (especially imports) I often identify the combination of genes by making an educated guess. When that happens the only way to prove out the genetics is through breeding trials. Everyone should understand the risk associated with purchasing an animal with a theoretical or presumptive ID. I make it extremely clear in my hatchling ads (title and description) what my theoretical ID is.
Do you have shipping requirements?
Yes, I have a few. My shipping days are Tuesday and Wednesday's only, and I only ship to FedEx Hubs. Other arrangements can be made, but DOA guaranteed is void. My hatchlings are shipped out once they hit 100 grams. I will not sacrifice the health of my animals for an impatient buyer.
What do you feed your collection?
My entire collection is fed on African Soft Furs that I produce myself. I switch between frozen and live, and will occasionally provide frozen rats to new animals inside the collection. All of my hatchlings are started on live prey as well. I have yet to have a customer not be able to switch any of my snakes over to f/t rats.
How do you choose your imports?
I go by my gut. If something looks cool I'll reach out and ask about it. I'll then find the founder of the gene (if not the same person) and see if they have different examples. If I like the overall look, and think I can make some crazy things - then I buy it. That's it.